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Silver Smoke

A History of the San Luis Valley in Southern Colorado

and the Construction of Rail Roads in this Alpine Valley


Not a finished document

corrections and additions almost daily

revision 2b


Towns of SLV


 Home White Smoke Gray Smoke Black Smoke Silver Smoke Towns of SLV WWGR-Mile by Mile Then & Now Reading & Research San Luis Valley Now


 

 

History of the Towns along the Valley Line to Wagon-Wheel-Gap

The entrance from the east is important to the history of the San Luis Valley, therefore the first stop is Walsenburg, which if you come from the east you will pass through.  It still holds the switching yards for the Union Pacific and BNSF and where the San Luis & Rio Grande Railroad links to these lines. The rail line then goes through the town of La Veta then on up to the pass which is about 4 miles to the South of the Highway  160 Pass.  The old narrow gauge roadbed is still accessible and drivable  close to the top of the highway pass.  Look for County Road # 168  signs.  Westward down the highway you will pass some old buildings on the north of the highway, this is what is left of Russell ( Placerville ),  Mines in the hills fed ore down to here and were loaded  on the trains for their trip east.

Fort Garland

Established and commanded by Kit Carson to control Indian raiding parties in 18??. Activity was fast paced for the first few years, but with the Indian treaty of 1870 and the arrival of the rail line in 1877, it’s need as a fort decreases and the local town soon became more a business center and loading point for the numerous crops being grown in this area of the valley. The Fort is now a museum to the memory of the Army Solders, including the Buffalo Solders stationed here.

Alamosa

 

Began as a tent city in 1875, by the railroad work crews, it quickly grew into the largest city in the valley. The large switching yards and railway maintenance facilities created to support the lines radiating in all directions, made this the main hub of railroading, not only in the valley but also throughout this area of the Rocky Mountains.

The addition of electrical power, water works and soon telephones helped prepare this town for the 20-century. Alamosa now hosts Adams State Collage, many farming support industries & businesses. Railroading is now a minor player in this busy town.

 

 

 

Above - Alamosa 1875- No more than a tent city

 

 

 

                   Right - Alamosa 1895 - Already a thriving town

 

 

 

 

Monte Vista

 

 

Half way across the valley a siding and a windmill fed water tank was placed alongside the rails and named after the irrigation waterway that passed through this area and on to the local farmers. Lariat had a simple start but grew into a major town for the area farmers. Land sales were promoted by ??? Henry. Probably to leave a lasting tribute to himself, the name changed to Henry. After loosing his and others monies, he quickly left the area and the name was changed to reflect the area surrounded by mountains, Monte Vista (Mountain View). A businessman C.S. Aldrich, a Civil War Officer, began the Henry Mercantile Company and in 1884 he began the publishing of The San Luis Valley Graphic newspaper. His home, built in 1884, was one of the first to grace this town and was for years the social center of locals and visitors alike. Monte Vista’s development as a "dry" town helped keep the rowdy ranch hands wild ways to look to Alamosa for their forms of relaxation and to maintain Monte Vista as the quiet family town of the valley.

In 1889, the town entered the modern era with the addition of an electrical power company. Growth was at a fast pace in 1892 when the Monte Vista Milling and Elevator Company finished its construction and could store 140,000 bushels and the mill was producing 400 barrels of flower in one day, the largest facility of this kind in the valley… Silver Ore was now not the only major cargo being carried out of the valley

Produce wagons awaiting the train in Monte Vista

Del Norte

 

Started earlier than most valley towns, by 1875 the town had grown into a major influence in the valley. During these early years Merchants, Bankers and Farmers gathered here to conduct the valleys business. It was such a serious player in the business of the soon to be state that discussions were had about making this town the new states capitol. With the founding of Alamosa this same year most banks moved and its growth slowed. With the arrival of the rail line in 1881, a train station and numerous warehouses helped continue its tradition of being a business center for local farmers and ranchers.

 

              Del Norte 1875 - Already an Established City

 

 

 

South Fork & Baxterville

Began as a trading center, quickly grew when the rail lines arrived, to a lumber and shipping stop on the line to Creede. Pine covered hills fed the saws and satisfied the need for ties and lumber to the ever growing railways extending in all direction out of the valley. Not only the railway but also early roads constructed north to Lake City and on to Silverton and a later road over Wolf Creek Pass allowed South Fork to stay as the main hub city for transportation into and out of the eastern area of the San Juan Mountains.

Now the southern terminus of the Denver & Rio Grande Railway’s Wagon-Wheel-Gap-Route, it’s foothold in the tourist market is assured.

 

 

 

 

            South Fork 1889 - Well established Depot and Lumber Mill

 

 

 

 

 

Wagon Wheel Gap

 

The "Gap" was named after a wagon wheel that was left stuck in the mud of the Rio Grande River by a transient miner, while being chased by Indians. He was lucky and escaped on his horse leaving the broken wagon parts behind.

Tom Boggs, a brother-in-law of Kit Carson, farmed at Wagon Wheel Gap starting in the summer of 1840. In 1870 a peace treaty was signed with the Ute Indians thus opening the San Juan Mountains to outsiders and allowing a stagecoach line & station to be constructed thus linking San Luis Valley with Creede, Lake City and other mountain mining centers. This opening allowed additional ranchers and homesteaders the ability to move into this area. Its dot on the map increased in size when the Denver & Rio Grande Railway arrived in July of 1883 and constructed its end-of-track station and support facilities on the wide meadow just south of the gap. Construction of Gen Wm. J. Palmers "Playground", the 4UR Resort and neighboring Feldspar mining facilities proceeded.

 

The rail link to Creede was completed in 1889 and the "Gap" became only a passenger, cattle loading and watering stop.

The Station at the "Gap" is the finest example of Rio Grande’s smaller train stations left in existence. Thanks to Toney Shaw & her daughter and son-in-law Ginni & Dug Davlin, they have cared for and restored it to its former glory. It is still a private residence, please respect that.

 

Looking south at the "Gap"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

      Tourist cabins at the "Gap" 1889

 

 

 

 

Creede

Creeds position as the main mining town delivering silver ore to the valley railroad in the 1800’s, allowed its place in western lore to be assured. With several major mines, the Holy Moses being the largest, feeding silver ore to the rail line, money flowed freely and all forms of entertainment was available. Numerous bars fed the thirst and gambling desires of these rough miners. Street fights and an occasional killing was not uncommon. This was the prototype of the later wild western towns depicted the following century by Hollywood.

 

At inception, Creede strung along the narrow valley from the mines on East Willow Creek to Stringtown then to where the valley widened and became to be known as Jimtown than down to Amethyst. Very little is remaining of upper towns, except for the old jail building and a couple buildings all traces have almost all disappeared. The lower towns of Jimtown and Amethyst are now collectively known as Creede.

The town of Creede was incorporated on June 13, 1892.  This incorporation saw the end too much of the lawlessness which had existed. Mining Camp bosses, such as Jefferson R. (Soapy) Smith and Bob Ford, had lost their power forever.

Creeds Fires are legendary they occurred in 1892, 1894, 1895, 1902 & 1936, with the early ones totally gutting the downtown area several times . Floods were also a problem in 1892, 1903, 1911, 1917 & 1942.

                    Creede in May 1892

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Creede just after Railroad entered ( rails on left side of photo )

 

San Luis Valley

Considered the highest alpine valley of this size in the world, its central elevation is about 7,500 feet, where the valley floor touches the mountains it reaches 8,000 feet. The mountain Peaks surrounding the valley average about 13,000 feet with the centerpiece being Mount Baldy at 14,121 ft. and the tallest. It is located just east of Alamosa and north of the La Veta Pass.

The valleys width stretching 70 miles from South Fork across to Fort Garland and reaches north to Villa Grove and 120 Miles south to about Taos New Mexico and the Indian Pueblos located nearby. It was home to the Indians for over 10,000 years, Invaded by the Spanish and controlled for 300 years, Taken over by the U.S. by treaty after a war with Mexico, then settled for the last 150 years.

Notes on Valley Life and Places:

Mountain Safety - If you are from out of the area and plan camping, hiking, 4 wheeling or other outdoors activity, then read on….

Expect valley summer average high to be about 78 degrees and nights to drop into the 40’s or lower. During winter months you can expect highs to be in the 30’s and lows to be in the 0’s to -30 deg. F. Mountains naturally will be cooler to frigid. If from out of the area, keep jackets, water bottles, and sunscreen handy. It is not unusual to get a quick snow or hail at the higher elevations during summer storms. The air is Very Dry and one will dehydrate easily with only mild exercise. At these elevations we do not have the protection of the atmosphere and will be sunburned easily. Those from lower elevations, especially those who smoke, be aware of the effects of this elevation on ones breathing. Take it easy, altitude sickness can kill.

If you go hiking or 4 wheeling make sure some one knows your plans and location, If no one is available, leave precise information at a Sheriff office or Forest Service office and make sure you let them know of your return. Colorado has a $2.00 hiker fee, this will cover all search-and-rescue costs if they need to look for you or extract you by helicopter. This fee is included with Fishing and Hunting Licenses or by itself at any store or office selling Fishing/Hunting Licenses. If lost, injured or broken down, stay put. They will look for you. Only light a Signal Fire as last resort, a large fire is not necessary, green wet grass on top of a small fire will make the needed smoke. Clear the area around the fire pit completely for at least 10 feet and keep it small and under control. Road Flares work great starting a fire, even under rain soaked conditions. Make sure you have several flares with you or in your car. Have a charged Cell Phone & extra battery with you if possible. Many ridgelines and hilltops are within cell range. Do not call family or friends for help, call 911 and talk to those who will rescue you. Cell batteries discharge fast, and to make them last longer keep the cell phone and spare battery warm in your inside jacket.

Have Fun but please be safe…

 

Mining - One must not assume only silver was mined in the mountains surrounding San Luis Valley, large amounts of gold, iron. feldspar and metals were removed along with the silver. Gold was found in the streams on the west slope of La Veta Pass, near the railroad town of Placer ( Russell ). Good quantities of gold were removed. Placer was a center for timber being removed from the Trinchera Estate ( 420,000 acres of the Sangre de Cristo Land Grant ). After the narrow gauge line was removed the timber was trucked down on the old road bed to Ft. Garland for loading.

Section Towns - These towns were developed and named by the rail roads to house the rail workers that were responsible for that "section" of track.  Usually spaced 15 miles apart on flat land and down to 5 miles in the mountains. Most of the small section towns are now just dust in both the minds of those who worked at them and the land they sat upon. These towns starting from the town of La Veta are:

Adel, Kincaid, Reliance Junction, Ojo, Mule Shoe, Placer now just some abandoned buildings on Highway 160, On the Standard Gauge Line - Occidental, Codo, Fir, Sierra then to, Mortimer - AKA. Garland City, (Ft. Garland, Blanca), Baldy, Hays, (Alamosa), Willis, Parma, Zinzer, Sugar Junction a connection to the San Luis Central RR, ( Monte Vista), Torries, Haywood, Freeman, Middaugh, (Del Norte), Hanna, Gerrard, (South Fork), Derrick, ( Masonic Park), Palisades, Wagon Wheel Gap, Chapman, Wasson, ( Creede )….

Existing towns are in parentheses.


A look at Rocky Mountain Law…..Mountain Three Kick Rule

 A Denver lawyer went duck hunting in San Juan Mountains. He shot and dropped a bird, but it fell into a miner's gold claim on the other side of a fence. As the lawyer climbed over the fence, the crusty old miner rode up on his mule and asked him what he was doing. The litigator responded, "I shot a duck and it fell in this mine site, and now I'm going in to retrieve it."

The old miner replied. "This is my property, and you are not coming over here." The indignant lawyer returned, "I am one of the best trial lawyers in Colorado. and, if you don't let me get that duck, I'll sue you and take everything you own."

The old miner smiled and said, "Apparently, you don't know how we do things in the Mountains. We settle small disagreements like this with the Mountain Three Kick Rule."

The lawyer asked, "What is the Mountain Three Kick Rule?"

The miner replied. "Well, first I kick you three times and then you kick me three times, and so on, back and forth, until someone gives up."

The lawyer quickly thought about the proposed contest and decided that he could easily take the old codger. He agreed to abide by the local custom.

The old miner slowly climbed off his mule and walked up to the lawyer. His first kick planted the toe of his heavy work boot into the lawyer's groin and dropped him to his knees. His second kick nearly ripped the man's nose off his face. The lawyer was flat on his belly when the farmer's third kick to a kidney nearly caused him to give up.

The lawyer summoned every bit of his will, managed to get to his feet, and said, "Okay, you old codger, now it's my turn." The old miner smiled and said, "Naw, I give up. You can have the duck"
 

 


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 Copyright 2005 by Richard Cutter

12 Washington St. Monte Vista, Colorado, USA 81144

For problems or questions regarding this Web site contact Wagon-Wheel-Gap@hotmail.com

 
Last updated: 04/04/05.