Silver SmokeA History of the San Luis Valley in Southern Colorado and the Construction of Rail Roads in this Alpine Valley Not a finished document corrections and additions almost daily revision 2b |
|
|
Mile-by-Mile Description of the Wagon-Wheel-Gap Route We start our future rail excursion in South Fork where we are 300 rail miles from Denver and 21 miles Southeast of our destination of Creede. Along the line are mileposts that will increase all the way to Creede. Subtract 300 miles from the posted number and you have an idea as to the distance we have traveled. Speeds will not be over ten miles per hour so expect about a two and half hour run. ![]()
ß South Fork in 1890. Cut Ties and timbers ready for loading - Note: The water tower is the same one you see across from the station…. Leaving the station on Highway 160, we are located where from South Forks founding to 2001 a lumber mill existed. It supplied ties and lumber for the construction and maintenance of the Denver & Rio Grande Railway. As railway needs decreased more standard sized lumber was cut and many of the valley homes are constructed from lumber cut here… We now pass over the South Fork of the Rio Grande River, this is the same style wood construction that was used on the line in the 1880’s, except this is constructed wider and stronger than what was needed for original narrow gauge track and equipment. We now approach a set of switches and looking to the right, we pass the "Y" track that is used to turn around engines and individual cars. The far end of the "Y" almost reaches into the Rio Grande River. Our climb to Creede is only about 1/2 percent, the elevation at start is at 8,200 ft. and we climb 600 ft during this 21-mile run. The steepest portion is the last two miles , here it approaches a 1.4 percent grade.
ß South Fork from a Birds-Eye-View, Train Stop and Lumber Mill, Baxterville is not shown but to the left, Photo is taken from the mountain looking north We pass over the highway to Creede, during the first half of the trip, this will be the only highway crossing, but we have many private and small streets to cross, the engineer will whistle each crossing to alert of our approach.
![]() ß Charles Burtons Commissary in Baxterville 1880’s To the left of our train we now pass the portion of South Fork that was the original town of Baxterville, it was established in the 1870’s as a trading post. South Fork was developed, when the tracks passed through, to be utilized as the train loading area for the lumber mill and passengers.
We should be passing Mile Post 300
We now approach the end of town and pass through a short stretch of National Forest Land. Be aware that the land looks green, but we are in a very dry environment, Fires start easily and with the ever present mountain winds we can have a repeat of the devastating fires of 2002 that burned thousands of acres and scores of homes in the mountains south of town. Please no smoking…We should be passing Mile Post 301 Entering the valley, we can see the cliffs to the east that were formed during the past Ice Age. Below are the meadows that are the play area of Deer, Elk and sometimes Moose. We are entering Elk Creek Ranch, which is now a housing subdivision along with minimal cattle operations. We should be passing Mile Post 302 The Rio Grande cuts back toward us, usually during the summer month’s fisherman and rafters can be seen working their way along the river. This stretch of the Rio Grande is considered one of the best for fly-fishing in Colorado. Lazy rafting, during the warm summers, is one of the most pleasurable activities in the area. We now approach and pass through Masonic Park, created at the of the turn of the century ( 1900 that is ) it was and still is a quiet get away from the very busy activities of the valley. Summer weekend activities and cookouts usually abound hosted by the Masons and their Eastern Star ladies. Again our rail path narrows, squeezed by the mountains and the Rio Grande. You may notice the mountains to the east are far more rugged than the more rounded hills to the west. We should be passing Mile Post 303 The valley floor widens out for us , the river is now following the other side of the valley. We are in the Coller Wildlife Area, a popular area to spot Deer, Elk and an occasional Moose. Bear inhabit this area but they usually stay miles away from population. Also, expect to see cranes, ducks, foxes and the ever-present chipmunks.We should be passing Mile Post 304 Watch for a green bridge to the right, this 1900’s period bridge is the last original roadway bridges left over this section of the river. The shade tree grove next to the bridge is a popular gathering place for picnickers and locals. Wedding Parties have been spotted there numerous times. We should be passing Mile Post 305 The last grouping of residences for a while is on both sides of the river, popular big city dwellers getaways during the summer months and almost deserted during the cold winters.
We enter a stretch that surrounds us with Aspens and Pines , a very beautiful area that almost totally isolates us from our valley wide views.
Please squint your eyes and look for the Ghost Train, It has been spotted on this line...
We should be passing Mile Post 306 With the sounding of the whistle we know that we are approaching a road crossing, then soon we will pass through the Silver Bridge. This is the only steel bridge on the line and very original. Wide enough to allow standard gauge trains to pass, it has held up admirably to the last 110 plus years. Then we are now traveling on the eastern side of the river. The Rio Grande is the first river to feed from the eastern side of the Continental Divide.We crawl along the sides of the cliffs in a cut that was constructed without machines, just the experience of the builders and their explosives, picks & shovels and aided by an occasional mule team. The highway is out of sight a hundred feet above us. The mountains crests on the east side tower about 2,200 feet above us, where as the rounder milder looking hills to the west start their climb to over 11,500 foot elevation. The mountains just north of Creede tower to over 13,200 ft We should be passing Mile Post 307 This side of the valley widens out to allow us a better view of both mountainsides. The differences are very noticeable with tree-covered hills to the west and to the east, rough cut mountainous drop to our level devoid of major tree covering. Blue Spruce and Lodge Pole Pine decorate the hills and Aspen add Fall time color. Many campers and fishermen utilize this tree-lined area along the river to exercise their right to have a lazy snooze during the warm summer afternoons.We should be passing Mile Post 308 We again approach where the 1883 work crews chipped and blasted the cliffs to create the path we are now following. Hundreds of workers were utilized to make these cuts and smooth the roadbed for what is now ours to enjoy.As we leave this cut, we approach a Forest Service campground, the only one to be along the train tracks. Barking dogs and hand waving children usually greet us. The hand waving suddenly stops and ears are covered when the engineer whistles the next crossing. Please wave back, they love it…. At the far north end of the campground is a docking area that is used for loading and unloading boats and rafts. We should be passing Mile Post 309 We are passing through a more isolated area that is good for spotting wildlife. With the highway out of sight, it reminds how remote this area was for the early explorers.We should be passing Mile Post 310 Civilization reappears on the far bank first, than to the right we see a very popular resort and restaurant, Blue Creek. As we pass over Blue Creek Bridge the train slows to make a hard turn to the left, then in a minute back to the right. These are the sharpest turns on the line. This is the last major housing we will pass until we reach Creede.We should be passing Mile Post 311
Watch to the left for the old Stagecoach trail, it is now a gravel road leading to several ranches perched on the west side of the river.We enter the next wooded area, it is a large stand of Cottonwoods that became a rest spot on the road to Creede. This has now developed into Cottonwood Resort including Cabins, Rv’s, Horse rides and Lodging. At the north end of the Resort was another turn-around "Y" to allow engines to be redirected for the return trip, this was removed in the ?1940’s?.
We should be passing Mile Post 312 Looking ahead is the original Train station at Wagon-Wheel-Gap ,Restored beautifully it is now a private residence.
The 1883 End of line was just past the station, about at the next dirt road crossing. There was lodging, and large loading platforms and cattle pens here until the line was extended into Creede in 1889. To the left is the entrance into the 4UR Ranch and mining area. The Ranch was the playground of William Jackson Palmer the founder and first president of the Denver & Rio Grande Railway. The wealthy and Powerful of Denver spent many summers here to avoid the summer heat of Denver. Large hot springs feed the resorts pools and hot tubs supplying not only relaxation during the cool Summer evenings but the springs also supply heat for the many cold winter nights. The resort is still in business, even though the main buildings burned in an unfortunate fire in 19XX. Some of the mine buildings still stand, despite the fact that the mine has been quiet since 19?? After passing the siding on the west side, we approach the next bridge and will pass through the "GAP". This is a narrow gauge wood bridge that was upgraded with additional pilings and a wider deck to allow the far heaver standard gauge trains to pass over. We are at 8460 feet and we have climbed 260 feet since South Fork, 12 miles ago, we have been on a .4% climb to this elevation. In the ?1920’s? it as proposed that a Dam be placed in the narrow point of the gap, creating a lake that would flood the valley beyond and the high water mark would be at the south end of Creede. Thankfully, this did not happen. Although the Farmers in the San Luis Valley could have gladly used the much needed irrigation water.
We should be passing Mile Post 313
The valley widens to a new dimensions. Very different than the lower valley, this quick change surprises many first time visitors. This is the domain of cattle ranches during the summer months, although many ranches now raise and train horses on these lush lands.We hear the whistle working to warn the road traffic of our arrival at the next highway crossing, expect it to sound more with short blasts to warn live stock, for this is open range we are approaching.
We should be passing Mile Post 314 We are now away from the highway and again can get a feeling of what this area must have looked like when just the Ute Indians and Mother Nature ruled this valley.We should be passing Mile Post 315 Again, the highway is just ahead and we will cross it, hug the hillside, and pass through a stand of Aspen Trees for about a mile.We should be passing Mile Post 316 Expect a surprised look from the tourists traveling south, most do not expect to see a steam train working its way through these mountains. Again, a highway crossing is just ahead.
We should be passing Mile Post 317
We complete a short crossing of the valley floor, then across the Wasson Bridge. Larger and taller than the Wagon-Wheel-Gap Bridge, this was also upgraded for standard Gauge by placing wide timbers across it. This wooden bridge was built far heaver because pf its length and height. Notice the Cable Crossing in the photo, the remains of this emergency crossing is still on each riverbank. Except for the railroad and a few cabins, little has changed through this valley area. Jeep trails allow limited access to the higher mountain regions.We are going to pass through Wasson Resort and another highway crossing. From this point the climb rate will almost double, expect the train to slow and the working noise of the engine to increase. Looking ahead, we can see the hills and mountains to the north of Creede, the peaks reach over 14,000 ft. We should be passing Mile Post 318 The sidings and "Y" at Wasson are now about us. Here is where the cattle were transferred into large pens from the livestock cars, and from 197X to 1985, the ores were loaded for its trip to the refineries. In it’s time it was a very busy stop. Moffat, developer of this rail line promoted that he was going to build the line from this "Y" through the mountains into Lake City and then on to Gunnison, that did not happen.We are now at 8660 feet and have climbed another two hundred
feet in s
We should be passing Mile Post 319 The rocky and barren river bottom greets us with a different view. Bits and Pieces of pottery, scorched house timbers, and iron rails are mixed throughout the rivers bed rocks, these relics of bygone times are 120 years of discards and sad reminders of the fires and floods that frequented the early town of Creede.We should be arriving at Mile Post 320 Approaching the city, we cross the last small river and than to our right children or the locals playing baseball at the large city park may greet us. Our pace slows to a crawl across the last highway crossing then into the rail yards of Creede. In a little over two hours we have traveled back 120 years into a very historic town. As the Professor found out, steam can make a fine time machine. See you in several hours for our return back to the future. Thank you for spending a day out of your life with us to relive the importance of these pioneering people and their empire of the 1800’s, we all hope you enjoyed the trip. Notes: 1) I use both west and left interchangeably same with right and east. Looking in the direction of travel from South Fork to Creede, these terms are interchangeable. The rail line runs truly more Northwest on an over all heading of about 310 degrees. Locals have always simplified terms and referred to the river as North-South 2) National Historical Site - The Wagon Wheel Gap Route is a registered historical site recognized by both the State of Colorado and National Government. This protection guarantees that the historical significance, construction methods and design of buildings and other construction will remain as it was in the 1800’s. |
|
Copyright 2005 by Richard Cutter 12 Washington St. Monte Vista, Colorado, USA 81144 For problems or questions regarding this Web site contact Wagon-Wheel-Gap@hotmail.com |